Feature | The Applecross Pass, Scotland
Between John Marcar and I, we’ve probably driven most of the best roads of the U.K. and further. Trying to figure out the best road to shout about for our first Driven Drives was always going to be a tough one but there are a certain few that will forever take the top spots. For me, the road that beats all other roads of the U.K. is Bealach na Bà, or more commonly known as the Applecross Pass.
Often impassable in winter, this single track road winds through the mountains of the Applecross peninsula for 11.4 miles of Scottish ruggedness. The first time I drove the pass, I was in my classic Mini and it was November. When I first planned the trip, I had every finger and toe crossed hoping for decent weather, or at least the absence of snow. I was driving up from the south, therefore drove up the pass instead of seeing it from above for the first time. The memory of this drive still makes my heart melt.
It takes a while to get to the pass, simply from the need to stop and take photographs of the view on the way up of Loch Kishorn, especially if the sun makes a gentle appearance through the clouds and glows golden across the water. Then as you climb, looking down to the left where the road stops and the land slopes steeply downwards, you begin to feel very small. Clouds skim the tips of the dark mountains either side of you, making you feel enclosed in this ominous space. I had to drop into 2nd gear at points to make it up the 20% gradient, constantly looking ahead for any other vehicles coming my way. Reaching the top and stepping outside, the wind batters you from all sides. You can’t help but feel very much present when looking down at this glorious road, trying not to be blown off the edge. On a clear day, the road is stunning, but I do feel it lacks that sense of drama.
As you crest the mountain and continue to drive towards the village, views of the North Sea begin to rise into view - that is, if you’re not driving through thick cloud like I was on my first trip up. Every mile of that road brings a fresh smile to your face, so much so that after you stop for a cup of tea and a Tunnock’s Tea Cake, you’ll inevitably turn around just to drive the pass all over again. And who could blame you? I’ve driven this road at least 5 times in different classic cars, and on motorbikes, and I still feel the same thrill each time my wheels turn onto to road. It’s both uplifting and humbling, beautiful and hair-raising. Just don’t be daft and attempt the pass in a caravan. Instead, sell the caravan and get yourself a proper road trip vehicle. One that’s, y’know, less caravan-y.
words by Amy Shore
photographs by Amy Shore
special thanks to Scotland (for being awesome)
